MILAN – A new house, a new logo and an addition to the team: Marcolin celebrates its 60th anniversary by looking to the future and refreshing its brand equity and corporate structure to prepare for the next chapter in its history.
On Tuesday, Managing Director Fabrizio Curci opened the doors to Marcolin’s new headquarters, which reflects the Italian eyewear company’s new course and its increased integration between the physical and digital worlds.
Located a few doors down from the central Corso Venezia avenue from the previous offices, the new 6,458 square foot site features more meeting rooms and lounges spread over two floors, including a conference room with digital tools and cameras allowing staff to zoom in on details while presenting collections from a distance.
Founded in 1961 and based in Longarone – in the Italian region of Veneto known for being an eyewear manufacturing center – Marcolin designs, produces and distributes eyewear collections for a number of licensed brands including Tom Ford, Guess, Adidas Originals, Bally, Moncler, Max Mara, Ermenegildo Zegna, GCDS, Tod’s, Emilio Pucci, Dsquared2 and Timberland, among others. In addition, the company’s portfolio includes the Web, Marcolin and Viva house brands.
Curci’s goal is to pivot the entire company towards a more efficient and flexible business model and to speed up production, optimizing time to market. “We always have to think in terms of efficiency and be able to balance speed and action as well as possible, to move forward with reduced timings compared to those we had in the past. And the pandemic in that sense has acted as a stimulus for us, ”said the executive.
As reported, in his first press interview, Curci teased the reorganization of the company, its key functions and management, intersecting responsibilities at all levels. In line with this approach, the company quietly welcomed Alessandro Beccarini to its team last year, asking him for a newly created position of Director of Style and Product Development, which Curci defined as “essential”.
Drawing on extensive experience in the eyewear industry with companies such as Prada and Luxottica, Beccarini now oversees the management and development of all of the group’s eyewear collections worldwide.
“The organization was divided into clusters and I decided to have a person who could [oversee] all styling and product development activities not only in all brands but also in regions, ”said Curci, stressing that this decision“ allows us to have a more linear path to follow on a daily basis ”.
The move is part of other staffing and service reconfiguration changes implemented over the past year to “improve the management skills of the company,” said Curci.
At the same time, Marcolin has invested in the digitalization of internal processes and automation throughout the supply chain, as well as in the reconfiguration of factories to optimize production.
The company’s commitment to ESG practices and the search for new materials has also been strengthened. For example, when regulations requiring traceability in the production of optical frames were introduced earlier this year, the company decided to extend these procedures even to its assortment of sunglasses.
To gain more control over business activities and make decisions faster, Marcolin has also recently taken full control of its subsidiaries in China and Russia, and is set to unveil a new head office in China in the coming weeks. .
“There is an opportunity in Asia that needs to be created,” noted Curci, adding that he expects important developments in the Far East as well as in Russia in the future.
To date, Marcolin’s global network consists of 14 subsidiaries around the world, located in Europe, Russia, the United States and Brazil, Asia (Hong Kong, Shanghai, Singapore) and Sydney. There are also two joint ventures, in Mexico and the United Arab Emirates, while globally the company distributes its products in more than 125 countries.
The company closed 2019 with a turnover of 486.7 million euros. Curci proposed net sales in 2020 were € 340m while in Q1 2021 it was € 108.7m, compared to € 93.5m in the same period. Last year.
“The business is doing well. We see that we are coming out of this difficult period, and the figures are starting to confirm this feeling, ”commented the executive, revealing that the figures for the second quarter, which have yet to be approved by the board of directors, indicate also the same encouraging direction.
To mark the company’s final phase and further illustrate its new, slender and more immediate approach, Marcolin revamped its company logo, removing the description “glasses” and creating another for his birthday.
In particular, the celebratory emblem – which interweaves the number 60 with the infinity symbol to form a pair of optical frames – adorns the packaging of a special collection of sunglasses launched under the Marcolin Web house brand. and available for purchase from select opticians from this month.
Available in two styles – a bob for women and a vintage-inspired pilot shape for men – the acetate sunglasses are reminiscent of the materials and colors of Longarone’s natural landscape, in addition to boasting iconic web elements. like the metal cloth detail embellishing the temples and nose bridge.
“The Web is at the center of our attention, first because it is a beautiful brand with a charming history, and secondly because it is recognizable. We took this opportunity to rethink the brand and focus on loyalty to the aspects for which it was founded and for which it is known, therefore its quality and distinctive symbolism, ”said Curci.
As the company’s focus shifts to the web redesign, last week Marcolin and Diesel revealed that they had mutually agreed to end their licensing agreement for Diesel eyewear collections after nearly a decade of partnership.
Curci said the company is not looking for a replacement or any other acquisition as Marcolin’s portfolio is balanced and spans different segments of the industry.
“It’s not like we’re running out of brands,” noted the CEO, noting that over the past two years, the company has signed agreements with many brands, developing among others two lines for Adidas and three brands. for the Max Mara group.
“Today, the winning strategy is to quickly manufacture quality products. Being quick and responsive seems obvious but it’s not in this industry. So this is the main topic we face, focusing on processes and operations: our house must first be in good condition, then we can look at other opportunities that arise ”, concluded the CEO.
PAI Partners controls 74.7% of Marcolin, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton holds 10% of the shares and other investors hold 15.3% of the shares. LVMH created a joint venture with Marcolin to create Thélios, which became operational in 2018 and produces and distributes eyewear collections for brands ranging from Céline and Loewe to Dior and Stella McCartney. LVMH holds 51% of the capital of Thélios and Marcolin holds the rest of the shares.